Butcher's Block: Lamb

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Lamb Shoulder Roast in Salt Dough

This time of year is when we see more and more people purchasing lamb at The Flora Butcher.  We are fortunate to be able to carry an amazing local lamb raised in Como Mississippi.  Home Place Pastures raises a California Red lamb on their pasture land.  It is arguably some of the best lamb that I’ve ever had and I’ve eaten it all over the world.

One of the big questions is how to cook lamb. Lamb racks are the most straightforward but the roasts for the leg and shoulder can intimidate some customers who don’t cook them very often. This method can be used on any lamb roast but we’ve chosen a shoulder roast this time. The roast has had the bone removed and it tied to hold it’s shape. Using a salt dough is something that I first tried while still in culinary school.  Many moons ago…  The preparation is more time consuming but the end result is worth the extra effort.  The dough locks in the moisture and gives the outside of the roast a briny saltiness that also reflects the herbs and spices in the dough itself.

3 cups All Purpose Flour

3 cups Kosher Salt

3 Egg Whites

3 tablespoons Lavender

3 tablespoons Rubbed Sage

3 tablespoon dried thyme

3 tablespoons chopped Rosemary

3 tablespoons Crushed Red Pepper

Lukewarm water

Mix all of the ingredients in a bowl and start with a 1-2 cups of water.  As you mix, you can add additional water until you can get it to stay together. You don’t want the dough to be too wet so go slowly.  Once it comes together, turn it out on a flour surface and work the dough until it is smooth.  The dough is better made the day before and allowed to rest in the refrigerator. Wrap it in plastic though or it will dry out.  Pull it out of the fridge at least an hour before you want to roll it out.

For the lamb shoulder, you don’t need to season it at all but it comes out better if you sear the outside well.  We use lamb tallow to reinforce the flavor but any cooking oil with suffice. Allow the lamb to rest 20-30 minutes after searing.

Working rather quickly, roll out the salt dough and place the shoulder, presentation side down, on the dough. Place 4-6 sprigs of rosemary on top of the roast and fold the dough around the roast until it is sealed. Place it seam side down on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Insert a digital thermometer from one end so that you have the temperature of the middle of the roast. Brush it with a whipped egg before baking and it will have an attractive golden brown when it’s done.

I cook roasts like this at 325 degrees for 3 hours, but every oven is different so watch the lamb’s internal temperature as it cooks. I take the lamb out at 135 degrees which allows it to cook up to about medium after it rests, still sealed in the dough for at least half an hour. I usually wait an hour and then crack the shell. 

Discard the shell after you break the lamb roast out in front of your guests.

LAMB ROASTED POTATOES (SIDE)

This is one of my favorite side dishes for lamb and it’s extremely simple.  Lamb Tallow makes all of the difference so try not to substitute another oil. Toss quartered new potatoes in the tallow. Lay them out on a baking sheet and season them with salt and pepper. Then, sprinkle dried thyme over the potatoes and add rosemary sprigs and garlic cloves.  Bake at 375 until they are cooked through and fork tender.