“May you live in interesting times” is the old English expression purported to be of Chinese origin. Certainly, the last few months have lived up to the true meaning of that phrase. While there certainly seems to be a light at the end of the Coronavirus tunnel, the national health and economic crisis is still very much with us.
Over the last few weeks we have been warned that the national food supply chain may be in jeopardy with meat processing plants closing due to illness and the trucking industry stretched to the limit.
My colleagues in the Mississippi food industry have worked tirelessly to keep their customers supplied with as many of the products and services that these difficult times will allow.
What has also emerged nationally, and especially in central Mississippi, is a greater public awareness of our food supply. In Madison County and beyond, the fledgling farm-to-table movement has taken on a new urgency as large commercial operations up north find their plants plagued with illness and a lack of national demand due to the closing of thousands of restaurants.
We in Flora, have always seen our community as the strongest proponent of the buy local movement in order to provide our families and friends with fresh unadulterated food products. We have envied access to fresh greens, eggs, tomatoes and root vegetables thanks to Leigh Bailey and Jamie Redmond at their Salad Days Hydroponic Farm; Dorothy & Van Killen of Two Dog Farms; and Trey McLean of Dog Trot Farms. The Flora Butcher, Dave’s Triple B Restaurant, Bill’s Creole & Steak Depot, The Blue Rooster and Railroad Pizza proudly incorporate ingredients from these local farms in our various recipes.
The Flora Butchers sources meats from various local farms, including lamb from Cuomo, pork from Wesson, chickens and ducks from Hattiesburg, and our prized Wagyu beef from our own farm in Monroe, Louisiana.
This month we will highlight local fresh ingredients that are both delicious and healthy. The taste and spectacular colors of these dishes shout Spring and a new beginning as we work our way back from a national lockdown. These are simple ingredients easy to prepare that the entire family will enjoy as we ride out our quarantine Bon Appetite.
We sell a surprising amount of duck at The Flora Butcher but the biggest question is the best way to prepare it. For whole ducks it can get pretty intricate but the breast works well with the simplest preparations. The key for me is to not end up with thick flabby skin.
Before you head to the grill, season the skin side of the duck breast and place it, skin side down, in a non-stick skillet on low heat. Leave in on the heat for at least 15 minutes and then check it every 5 minutes. You are looking for golden skin that is starting to get crispy. It takes a little time but it is practically effortless and it will slowly render the excess fat from the skin. I usually grill it skin side up until it is about 135 degrees and then let it rest 5-10 minutes in a warm spot. If you prefer it more cooked then try to stop around 155 degrees so that it doesn’t dry out the meat.
We have an amazing syrup here at the shop that originates from the Dolomite mountains of Italy. There is a specific miniature pine tree that they harvest the buds from and age in glass jars for the summer. It is then mixed with a sugary solution and slowly cooked down into a syrup and strained. The result is subtle sweetness with an almost savory finish. It’s usually paired with Italian deserts but I also love it as a glaze for duck.
We have amazing pork at the shop but these are quickly becoming the big favorite. If you have a large injecting needle, then you can try this yourself. Mix 1 cup lard with 1 tablespoon kosher salt as a base. You can add other flavoring to make it spicy or sweet but try it as is the first time.
Using a cold, uncut, bone in pork loin works best. Warm the lard mixture up JUST enough to make it liquid enough to push through the needle. You want to try to push the needle in until it hits the rib bones on the other side. Then inject the lard as you are pulling the needle back out to lease a trail of the mixture. Repeat two or three times per bone. When you cut the loin into thick chops, the larding will be in the center of the chops, instead of on the surface.
Grilling is my favorite for pork shops. Cook to 145 degrees and then rest at least 5 minutes. If you have someone who insists on cooking it more, the larding with help keep it moist.
One of our favorite, little-known steaks here in Flora is the Bavette. The non-sexy name for this muscle is the Sirloin Flap and it is part of the bottom Sirloin. The other part being the Tri-Tip. Think of the thickest, juiciest skirt steak you have ever encountered.
While a whole piece can be much more than you may need, an 8-10 ounce bavette steak is easy to cook and absolutely delicious. Season it with Kosher salt and some fresh ground pepper and let it sit at room temperature for around 20 minutes. Grill it just the way you would your favorite steak and then allow to rest 5-10 minutes in a warm place. The trick to enjoying your bavette is to remember to slice it against the grain. I usually do it all at once and then move it to the place. We finish ours with our Wagyu Demi Glace.
The sky is the limit on what vegetables to grill but always try to pick what’s in season. I like to pile my cut veggies in a large ziplock bag with olive oil, a pinch of crushed red pepper, salt and pepper. Then, I leave them in the bag for an hour in the refrigerator. Take the vegetables out of the oil and grill them quickly to keep for burning them or losing too much of their texture. Arrange them on a plate to go with your mixed grill.
The olive oil that we carry at the shop is slightly green and peppery and makes a great finishing oil to drizzle over your final product. Any excess at the bottom of the plate is perfect for dragging your bread through.
