Gustavo Arellano, a self-proclaimed nerd, columnist and author of the books “Ask a Mexican” and “Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America” argues he traces the anthropological origins of a variety of foods, drinks and ingredients that have dominated world cuisine from the street taco to the margarita.
There is even a chapter in his 2012 book “Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America” on how tamales found their circuitous way to the banks of the Mississippi to become a Delta delicacy. But perhaps no other ingredient illustrates his thesis quite as clearly as the global spread of chocolate.
The cacao plant grown is native to South America and over time made its way north to the wooded highland of northern Mexico.
While we think of chocolate today as something sweet and solid eaten in pieces as a treat, it was consumed ceremonial for thousands of years as a drink. Evidence suggests that it may have been fermented and served as an alcoholic beverage as early as 1400 BC and ceramic vessels with residue from preparing chocolate drinks have been discovered at archeological sites believed to be as old as 1900 BC.
The ancient Olmecs used chocolate for religious rituals or medicinal drinks, though little evidence if any remains of how they were prepared.
Mayan culture adopted the cacao bean and prepared a beverage reserved for the upper class. By the time it migrated into the Aztec culture the tradition was expanded to include warriors who made their mark in battle.
Arellano says that beans were processed in a way that required them to be roasted, cracked and de-shelled leaving a smoky, bitter core called the nib. The nib was then ground into a paste and mixed into a pot with boiling water.
“They poured the cocoa water from one pot to another until the liquid foamed,” Arellano says.
Chiles, aguamiel, vanilla and other aromatics were then added to enhance the drink.
Spanish conquistadors were amazed by the drink. One records an incident in which he watched Moctezuma II, ninth ruler of the Aztec empire, consume something like fifty jars of the stuff. When the Spaniards got a hold of it they would add milk and sugar. They would load it onto galleons among their many spoils of the new world and from there it spread throughout Europe, tinkered with at every juncture and then the world.
Some of the original ingredients in what is by any metric hot cocoa may be suspect, but we present a recipe below that looks at a cup sent around the world a few times and brought straight into your kitchen for a warm and boozy Holiday treat to serve to friends and family. The texture is light and foamy but the chocolate still has enough body to be enjoyed heartily.
Tequila, something Arellano dedicates the entirety of chapter 13 of his book to, grounds the drink in its native soil while the combination of mint and peppermint schnapps bring a seasonal flair and icy-hot sensation.
This recipe makes four mugs and shouldn’t take you any longer than it would take to play a live version of Neal young’s "Cortez the Killer," so whip up a few next time friends stop by to take some solace from the cold.
1/4 cup cocoa powder
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
pinch kosher salt
3 cups whole milk
4 ounces milk chocolate chips
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate chips
4 ounces tequila
2 ounces peppermint schnapps
Whipped cream and mint leaf garnish
In a medium saucepan, stir cocoa with sugar and salt. Stir in milk, milk chocolate, and bittersweet chocolate. Heat over medium heat, stirring constantly, until chocolate is melted and mixture is hot. Gently whisk to completely homogenize the mixture. Add tequila and peppermint schnapps. Divide into serving cups and top with whipped cream and mint.
